It’s easy to argue that Autumn is quite the best time in which to enjoy a trek up to the high pastures above Valchiavenna.
Over the years this magazine has indicated a wide range of destinations for our readers to aim for: places and routes that afford splendid panoramas or indeed little-known corners of extraordinary beauty and charm.
In this edition we have included some particularly striking shots of Alpe Cima. But we should make clear at the start that it’s not an outing suitable for everyone. It’s a round trip of about six hours and involves a height differential of 600 metres.
What is for sure is that anyone prepared to make the effort will be rewarded along the way with some stunning views.
First though you need to get a pass from the bar near the Church in Gordona in order to take the road to your setting out point – Donadivo. Leave the car in the little piazza. The mule-track to head off along is pretty evident; it’s a climb along a fine stone path which immediately moves into woodland. But it remains a fairly demanding route leaving Donadivo at 750 m in order to reach Alpe Orto at 1165.
A captivating trail, and particularly in Autumn when the first chill has encouraged the subtle changes in hues of leaf and foliage - with orange and yellow coming nicely to the fore.
Some extraordinary views offer a valid excuse to stop and catch your breath: Val Bregaglia stretches out to the north whilst below to the south lies Lago di Novate Mezzola. The vantage point half way up the ridge throws up some extremely engaging vista. It’s also an area much appreciated during these months by lovers of mushroom and chestnut.
Our first foray has brought us as far as Alpe Orlo from where we will push on and up to Alpe Cermine at 1350 m along the mule track which was once a vital link between the high pastures and settlements in the valley bottom. Onwards and upwards then. Simply follow the signs all along the ridge and you’ll slowly make your way out of the woods. Then follow the trail across the mountain along its flank, until you note the rather particular little white church at the top which announces your arrival at Alpe Cima.
You’re at slightly less than 1900 m now. Bravo! At this time of the year the hamlet is rarely populated and it thus takes on an almost fairy-tale aspect made even more evocative by the pastel colours dominating the surrounding mountains contrasting with the deep blue autumn skies above. Only the wind disturbs the silence up here. The views make the effort – all three hours of it – easily worth the uphill trek. From these high meadows the scenario takes in the peaks of Val Codera until the granite of the Pizzone di Prata, and embraces even higher peaks across towards Valbregaglia. Remember that in Autumn the weather can change rapidly. Ensure you have appropriate clothing in your rucksack, including headgear. Trekking boots and a spare pair of long trousers are also recommended. And of course a celebratory picnic lunch and adequate supply of water!