The first steps of this extraordinary uphill trail never fail to take me by surprise. It’s a genuinely tough climb up the steep flank of Monte Avedèe, a route which appears totally inaccessible seen from the main road heading down and through Novate Mezzola, but was made possible over the centuries by way of a mule track which is regarded as an absolute masterpiece of its kind, in that the bends are manageable and not excessive. I had chosen an Autumn outing. Perhaps because in the past I’d been unlucky in finding adverse weather conditions in Sept/Oct but finally patience paid off and last year I took advantage of a warm, sunny period within this magnificent season so enriched by nature’s art. As ever I remain completely enthralled by the panorama stretching all the way down to Lake Como. But in particular it’s the lake at Mezzola which mesmerises me. You can almost stretch out and touch it, can’t you? I move up leisurely and stop regularly to enjoy the view and take some pictures. Beyond the little chapel the path begins to wind its way into the valley and the meadows of Avedée open out before you, and it’s from precisely here that you can finally spot Codera. At least, there - in the background. And every time I ask myself the same question: “What on earth made someone decide to come and live in Codera?” Why choose a place so out of the way, wild, forbidding and almost impossible to get to? I try to imagine what went through their heads all those years ago. I move onwards towards the village while the warm autumnal colours wrap themselves around me. I’m bathed in yellow with shades of red, brown and orange. It suits. As ever I get dripped on in the galleria. At Codera itself both the spreading multi-hued Maple and the bell-tower appear to approve and bid me welcome. It’s a timeless place indeed. I familiarise myself with the spot again, consider going up to Bresciadega but change my mind, maybe it’s a bit late and anyway it will be completely in the shade. So I have a break and share a cooling beer sitting outside with the keeper of the Osteria Alpina. After a satisfying break, I decide not to go back the same way but to take the loop which heads via the village of San Giorgio and then continues down to Campo Mezzola.
It means crossing the magnificent stone bridge taking me beyond Alpe Cii and I reach the signpost indicating the turnoff for Cola. I can’t resist a quick visit to this little place hosting a spectacular panorama. I retrace my steps amid a wild, often unforgiving yet fascinating landscape prior to reaching the hamlet of San Giorgio, built on a hillock and yet impossible to see from below. At this time of year with flickering shades of colour and the light playing tricks I feel I’m almost part of a fairy tale. Yes, I come to take pictures and I do. But the low sun warns that I should hurry if I want to avoid going down with the light directly a head. The steep path swiftly takes me back to the car. Looking back up you simply can’t fathom where you might have actually been, but I rapidly run it through my mind – almost dream-like - whilst still wallowing in the colours and scents of Autumn...
