Testo e foto a cura di Irene della Morte
Any regular visitor to Campodolcino can’t help but note the somewhat original sense of humour which characterises local dialect. Particularly evident in the tiny conurbation of Portarezza, a place flanked by mountains, perched between pastures, little tracks and rocks which proves popular with visitors keen to appreciate its history, geography and associated culture but also for the ready wit and repartee applied by locals to every conceivable situation.
But Portarezza is also an ideal setting out point for a range of attractive outings. In two hours along the C23 route you can be at the Alpe Viziola refuge; alternatively a twisting trail through woodland deposits you in the wide open spaces where the refuge Servizio is located (1566m) a ‘base-camp’ for further outings upwards to Alpe Servizio, Passo del Servizio, Lago del Truzzo. For the less ambitious there’s a fine nearby viewing spot at Alpe Zanone.
The hamlets of Cimaganda, Vho and Gallivaggio lie to the south where pilgrims gather at the Sanctuary or visit the fascinating little temple at Vallesegna; alternatively enthusiasts of the sport take to bouldering, or the simply curious wonder at ancient Scribaita rock engravings nearby.
There’s an admirable tranquillity to a traffic-free Portarezza and its terrace-like form offers visitors some splendid panorama. Sun-kissed meadows with all their engaging scents alongside the soothing melodies of mountain streams and designated picnic areas make for memorable family outings. Local history plays its part too with the temple dedicated to San Gregorio long believed to have protected the hamlet from centuries-old threats of flooding.
Nostalgia lingers long for the local healing waters which still survive albeit in an artificial stretch where in winter, its crystal clear waters appear almost lacquered. Today the summer sun plays magically on the surface, reeds play host to dipper, duck and cormorant whilst freshwater trout try not to attract undue attention.
