Spending the night in the mountains has always been a passion of mine. Be it in tent, bivouac or refuge. It’s enough just to be there but then photography added another serious dimension. An awareness of the range of light. By day, at dusk, the blue hour, then night itself with dawn awaiting. And remember - all you have to do is just be there. There, in this case, being the Primalpia bivouac in val dei Ratti, a magnificent, isolated spot and a fine overnight stopping
place. Late Spring 2015, temperatures above the norm, hence little snow and a party of three (Tita and Gualtiero) taking the opportunity to celebrate the arrival of summer. With a huge backpack – a combination of photographic gear and plenty to eat and drink - we leave the car down below. Coffee near the church at the ever-fascinating Frasnedo and then onwards along the path into this very particular valley quite out on a limb. Moving gently through the magnificent Alpine pastures taking a few photos along the way. We’re joined briefly by friends who have their own agenda before finally reaching the “Hotel” Primalpia after a few hours of serious donkey work! It’s as welcoming within as nature has been along the way. A quick snack in the open air with thirst-quenching cool beer before leaving back-packs behind and up once again towards lago Marzel (2296m) a first for me and which we reach in around 45 mins. improvising our route to avoid the massed snows in some parts. The lake remains partially frozen and as a result resembles a magnificent turquoise patchwork. I try to capture the scene as we do our “lap of honour” before we head back down, resisting a strong temptation to hang around until dusk. We’re down in no time and ready for an aperitif and a dinner interrupted
regularly by taking shots of a fantastic sunset. Coffee might be over but the atmospheric blue hour just before the dark isn’t. The stars pricking out in an increasingly studded night sky are accompanied by natural lullabies from nearby streams. Dawn rises early as do I to appreciate the ever-changing nature of the developing light. A new day. And we’re lucky enough to be there. Okay, maybe sunset just has the edge in a photogenic sense. But wondrous too is dawn within an Alpine setting. A lazy breakfast but by mid-morn we’re on our way northwards to the Volta refuge and thus complete our loop of the valley stopping mid-way to enjoy a fine snack in an extraordinarily scenic location. The refuge is situated in a vast amphitheatre commanded to
the west by the legendary Sasso Manduino and to the north by pizzo Ligoncio which is reachable steadily enough in a couple of hours. Another bite at Volta and we then anticipate our long descent; first we must cross alpe Talamucca, then down along a steep path via alpe Camera to rejoin our original uphill route, the Frasnedo refuge and another obligatory refreshing beer! A splendid weekend. A fine bivouac in the company of friends within the tranquillity of nature itself. Tempted?
