It can’t have been by chance that the location chosen by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle for the “ultimate” duel between hero Sherlock Holmes and his arch-enemy Professor Moriarty was the spectacular Reichenbach Falls in Switzerland. Or indeed that one of romantic poet Wordsworth’s most-loved poetic works celebrating man’s relationship with nature and the wonder and beauty of the natural world was entitled “The waterfall”. That a fantastic and emotional mix of fact and fiction about the natural phenomenon featured on these pages has evolved over the centuries is no surprise. Coleridge in verse, Tolkein in fiction and J.M.W.Turner and Jakob Hackert in oils have all contributed to that intoxicating cauldron.

 

In literature, waterfalls are regularly used as symbols of renewal, transition and the passage of time. Natural wonders that draw people in with their mesmeric beauty. Fast-flowing water, lushness in abundance, and the constant cacophony of cascading water create an ambience of confusion yet at the same time provide an all-enveloping calmness. There’s movement a‘plenty: power, vibrant colour and the atmospheric, almost mystical, playing of light. Senses are invariably heightened. Waterfalls provide an olde-worlde, utterly natural immersive experience. Leonardi da Vinci in his Codice Atlantico noted “le belle chadute d’acqua” and their “wild beauty” on his journey through Valchiavenna. Leonardo was of course referencing the Acquafraggia falls at Piuro in Italian Bregaglia. Centuries later, the historian Cesare Cantù counted the Acquafraggia among the “most beautiful of Alpine waterfalls”. Few would argue with either. In 1984 the waterfalls were declared a natural monument by the Region of Lombardy.

 

I’ve long been a huge fan of the natural park, with its rare flora near the falls themselves owing everything to the impact of the masses of water creating its own micro-climate. But perhaps my most memorable experience of these awe-inspiring falls was two decades ago, in the depth of a serious winter. I had made my way through the snow-clad park in late January until reaching the foot of the frozen falls. An almost tangible stillness and a profound silence dominated. Looking up towards the top I noted a quintessentially natural ice sculpture. A magnificently-maned adult beast of a lion. Outrageous, majestic and impeccably formed. But had my imagination taken over? I was distracted by the approach of an elderly couple. They had broken a magical spell - and so risking all - I enquired of my newly-adopted companions if they could see anything near the top of the frozen falls. “Un Leone!!” they confirmed simultaneously, taking out their camera. I didn’t feel the experience needed recording. It was unforgettable. Acquafraggia is sure to inspire in all seasons. In spring following its natural embellishment by melting snows there’s a power and strength encapsulating the very force of nature. Power, purity and renewal. Transcendence. A source of spiritual and emotional cleansing. Sparkling blues and vibrant greens. A connection between the earthly and the divine. And while we’re temporarily back on earth: there are more landscapes of wonder and awe within our valleys. All dancing to their own rhythm.

In Valle Spluga the Cascata di Pianazzo is another fine spectacle. There’s a splendid viewpoint above the falls just before entering the tunnel that leads to Madesimo near the hamlet of Pianazzo itself. The Scalcoggia torrent impressively drops around 130 metres. And you get a totally different perspective of the waterfalls from the other side of Valle Spluga. It involves a drive to Isola and then head for Starleggia where from an upper vantage point you get the full visual impact albeit from afar. And Starleggia has its own natural treasures. There’s a very fine waterfall just a stroll from the village itself. And not too far away in Val Febbraro the Cascata di Borghetto which has become a hugely popular venue for ice climbing in winter when conditions are favourable. And the narrow valley is an utter delight in the warmer months too.

Ecomuseo della Valle Spluga in Campodolcino has details of the “via delle cascate” which traces the old road created by the Austrians. The route follows the Liro torrent taking in the waterfalls at Starleggia and Pianazzo as far as Isola. On the return trip to Madesimo it hugs the Scalcoggia stream and takes in additional waterfalls at Catino and Groppera.

 

Back on the valley floor in Valchiavenna heading towards Chiavenna in Somaggia is the impressive Cascata di ‘Pisarota’. Great view of it on the right from the main SS 36. The torrente Lunga provides the raw material and the fall drops down over 60 - 80 metres.

Shifting nearer to Chiavenna you’ll come to the popular area knows as La Boggia just outside the village of Gordona. At the bottom part of the gorge there are a series of rock pools invariably occupied by bathers in spring and summer. They are fed from up above by the Boggia torrente in Valbodengo by a number of short falls and the gorge itself is a fantastic natural feature, much favoured by the canyoning fraternity. Artists can’t be wrong can they? With their oils and watercolours they can play with perspectives and convey enormous depth, united together in a plethora of colour and vitality. Whilst for poet or novelist waterfalls provide a backdrop to an even broader canvass of emotions.

And for any visitor to Valchiavenna, Bregaglia or Valle Spluga there’s an engaging beauty that will both captivate and inspire. You can’t help but become immersed in the scenario in front of you. An unstoppable force. Importantly Wordsworth’s poetry was written in the language of ordinary people to show that “men who do not wear fine clothes can feel deeply”. And who knows? Perhaps, one day in the future - deep into wintertime - an outrageous, monumental lione might just turn up again!