Il Quartino is not simply a crotto but a great deal more. It was undoubtedly the forerunner to the crotto as we know it today, a characteristic and genuine Valchiavenna “local” which then becomes an enterprise open to the public and evolves into a reference point for visitors and locals alike. Santa Croce di Piuro. A stone’s throw from the Statale 37, heading up from Chiavenna towards the Passo del Maloja and St. Moritz. It’s right here that the Crotto Quartino has been in situ for around seventy years now. And this very particular place is where staff happily “slave” over hot stones in order to satisfy customers who, having tackled Chiavenna’s very own brisaola, can look forward to Pizzoccheri bianchi, pork spare ribs, sausages and polenta taragna. And of course all more than adequately washed down with a hand-crafted nectar in the shape of local red wines. Typical valley cuisine overseen by your hosts Fabio and Mauro Salini.
Over the years the pair have committed themselves to perfecting all that’s on offer as far as quality is concerned, selecting ever better products and ingredients whilst maintaining a strong territorial identity. Crotto Quartino began life in the ‘30’s as a popular afterwork meeting place, where locals could relax playing bocce or a game of cards whilst enjoying some wine. Little by little and over time it transformed, started to offer hot dishes which would gradually evolve into the “exclusive” menu which is proposed today. Just a few set dishes, all closely linked to tradition, and extremely specialised. Service is prompt but basic, no fuss with tablecloths, no plate service, only the afore-mentioned local favourites served on abundant trays to be shared out from mid-table.
The “trademark” dish on offer surely has to be Pizzoccheri bianchi 1930, highly-original to the Quartino, and emblematic of the restaurant since its doors first swung open. Small gnocchetti prepared by dextrous use of a spoon, and not to be confused with gnocchi otherwise you’re likely to feel the wrath of both Fabio and Mauro. A combination of white flour, bread, milk and water pitched into boiling water. This simple process takes over and once cooked they are flavoured using Crotto Quartino ®Cheese, a genuinely secret ingredient, curdled expressly following the guidance of our two fraternal “mentors” and finally the top is basted with melted butter, garlic and sage aplenty. But don’t forget to add a healthy dose of black pepper.
Recently the crotto has been the subject of a comprehensive refurbishment involving the entire building within and without. From a simple tavern the Quartino has evolved into a genuine pantheon for traditional cuisine. Fabio and Mauro are intent that visitors can enjoy an authentic Valchiavenna experience, incorporating stone tables in the external area, and a new dining area upstairs. And yet the picture was not yet considered complete. “We couldn’t possibly claim authenticity without contextualizing it in the round. Hence we began the work to make sure it can express its very essence”.
