Highly original to say the least. And the name itself speaks volumes. A veritable hybrid of style and innovation proving a welcome and novel addition to Chiavenna’s manifold delights. And yet it’s a winning formula based on respect for tradition with a keen eye on raw materials.

Setting trends and creating the latest “buzz” has almost become a fashion in itself. We’re referencing here some of the more disparate cultural phenomena, particularly within the food and beverage sector.

And the point? To surprise, amaze perhaps and even unsettle, but invariably to stretch the boundaries in order to create that “wow” effect. But first you have to pull it off, because there will always remain the risk of appearing affected or – worse still – ridiculous. Happily it can also work a treat. And in Chiavenna there are those who have been prepared to create a genuinely hybrid habitat, one in which it is not the guests who are obliged to adapt to the place they have chosen to frequent – but the space itself. A place which smacks of flexibility both architecturally and with what’s on offer, and which manages to make everyone feel at ease regardless of the reason they are there. Opening time indeed then for “Il Locale”, inaugurated in May in the splendid setting of Pratogiano, and orchestrated by Giulia and Mattia, who simultaneously manage the Hotel Crimea, a serious reference point for the town’s noted hospitality. The “Local” articulates a new definition of an enterprise. A place where you can have breakfast, or which encourages a relaxing aperitif or alternatively lunch or dinner – inspired by traditional crotto gastronomy. There may not be anything radically different in the detail, but given the broader picture and seeing how it’s all been put together, it does have a distinctly surprising feel to it. An edge. But at its very heart sits a sense of sustainability. And clearly guests appreciate its authenticity. The materials employed are generally wood and stone and often recovered from a previous life. A vast rock wall with flowing water is an original backdrop within the room reserved for diners. Plastic is banned from table service: no straws or disposable plastic products. Every dish is produced using choice ingredients and raw materials of the very highest quality. Chef’s recommendations range from traditional local dishes to those inspired by his vast international experience gained in kitchens world-wide. Yes, there’s definitely something both original and authentic about “Il Locale”. Giuseppe Verdi once declared “Go back to the ancient and you’ll see progress”. And that’s just what Giulia and Mattia have done, opening the door to something “edgy” that Chiavenna had been distinctly lacking.