“We spend our life,” said Nobel prize winning playwright Samuel Beckett, “trying to bring together in the same instant a ray of sunshine and a free bench”. Sun-kissed, my free bench would be modest. Simple, wooden, unpainted with a few random splinters. And not over-comfortable. Three struts for a seat with a further two creating a back rest. Room for two perhaps. Far away from traffic with wonderful panorama and a tinkling of running water in the background. We’re above the village of Montespluga on the way up to Bivouac Val Loga (ex Cecchini) at 2750 ft. Pizzo Ferre with its impressive glacier and Pizzo Tambo dominate and challenge the bolder But from my humble position you can see the pastures of val loga with the stream coursing all the way down to the lake, the dam at the bottom and the Cardinello gorge lying in wait. Into the sublime. The word panorama has a Greek originbut sitting here it’s almost as if it might have been coined for our very own alpine valleys. In the past Romantic poets Byron and Shelley and artist Turner interpreted their journeys across the Alpine arc in stanza and sketch. And on my humble bench anew, personal memories over more recent decades are many: Forgive my indulgence. But isn’t that what benches are all about? Memories. Because benches form part of all our histories. Highly personal but nevertheless a collective experience. And there’s something rather attractive about the idea of a free bench. The enjoyable whiling away of a few minutes. Romance. Holding hands, that first kiss? Promises made and never kept. Animpromptu meeting which inspired. Or perhaps a home-made sandwich whilst feeding the ducks. Quiet contemplationin sun or shade with a book. A place to say hello, and indeed goodbye.
Where people turn up. Or not. And of course what concerns us particularly today: panorama: “A complete view” - a combination of the Greek for “all” and “sight or spectacle; that which is seen” In this regard, Valchiavenna and its environs throw up a plethora of opportunities.. The Chiavennaschi are renowned for their warm, generous welcomes, yet every single one of them has their very own idea of: the perfect panorama. One that visitors to Valle Spluga,Valchiavenna or Val Bregaglia should not leave without seeing. So guests to our splendidvalleys could do a lot worse than asking the locals a simple question. Where would you park your bench? Let’s throw a few locations into the equation.
Belvedere di Chiavenna is sure to be a popular choice. Convenient and accessibie. Situated just above the town itself and reached on foot by muletrack comprising a long series of steps then moving gently into chestnut woodland which opens out onto the Belvedere meadow and terrace (470m) which throws up magnificent views of the town below and providing a totally new perspective. Across the valley Pianazzola remains irresistible to the eye with vineyards on the steep slope below, and up above the wooden cross of Dalò, the mouth of Valle Spluga and then down towards the expanding Valchiavenna plain.
Torre di Segname (on the slopes between Gordona and San Pietro, Samolaco) is certain to attract attention. Sentinels, smoke and fire were once the key elements to its history. The tower’s origin is certainly ancient - at the very heart of the dark Middle Ages - maybe even earlier, when Alpine valleys were filled with watchtowers to warn of invaders. Any passage of troops on the valley floor be they Grison or French could be transmitted using smoke during the day or fire by night from the castle at Chiavenna all the way down to Milan, it’s said, in less than hour. Tower to tower.
Accessible by foot from the Boggia district of Gordona, the tower, restored in 1999, provides an attractive outing, throwing up a fine perspective of the surrounding valley. To the north the Forcola Pass, then Chiavenna and its vast plain; the entrance to both Val Bregaglia and Valle Spluga, and straight across to the east the domineering Pizzo di Prata which keeps its very own timeless watch. We glimpse the peaks of the lower Val Codera and Valle dei Ratti, whilst to the south we see the lower Valchiavenna, Lago di Mezzola and the upper Lario.
“On a hill far away stood an old rugged cross….” Is the opening line of an old hymn, Schooldays. And if that particular 19th century hymn-scribbler needed further inspiration he might head from San Giacomo Filippo, up to the hamlet of Dalò. Nowadays you can take the car. Or approach through a stimulating hike along a well-maintained mule path from Pianazzola. Yes Dalò. Today the wooden with iron trimmings has become one of the valley’s outstanding reference points. The hamlet of Dalò is utterly charming, a grassy balcony at the crossroads of three valleys (Val Bregaglia, Valle Spluga and the Chiavenna plain). The place throws up some wondrous vista. The nucleus is formed by a sprinkling of well-restored baite and a picturesque white church. Lush green meadows. Behind the church Pizzo di Prata forms an impressive backdrop. We recommend the mule track after which you’ll probably appreciate the panorama even more. And the bench.
Myths and legends surround the village of Foppaccia situated above Verceia. (1020 - 1090m) Dragon slayers are depicted on the church of Sant’Anna and particularly evil witches feature too in local folklore in nearby Val Priasca. There are claims Saint George is buried along the way. All set in a magnificent mountain pasture made up of vast meadows once occupied by cattle, sheep and cows. It’s an idyllic setting where its microclimate encourage cherry trees to blossom timely. And even romance. Unparalleled views take in the entirety of Lake Novate, the Chiavenna plain and the lower Valle dei Ratti. With a pair of binoculars you can pick out the Torre di Segname up and across and even perhaps spot some exotic birdlife at rest on the Pian di Spagna below.
“The church on the hill” would fit snugly on a bookshelf occupied by the complete works of novelist Thomas Hardy. In fact we’re in the municipality of Samolaco and Sant’Andrea al Colle with its splendidly green swathes at 400m. Alongside the church there’s an epic bell tower standing at around 30 metres, parish house and tiny cemetery. The route from Era on the valley floor takes in the via Crucis, with its many shrines dating back to the mid 18th century.
SANT’ANDREA AL COLLE
But the hill itself stands proud in its solitary position and is really rather special. Once at the top you’re greeted by chestnut groves, stone walls, slate roofs and wooden galleries once bedecked with bright yellow corn cobs drying. A pastoral scene perfectly pitched for an attentive water colourist. It’s also lesser-known than many of Chiavenna’s more popular destinations yet it hosts some of the most memorable views from the tiny cemetery - of S. Pietro below, the Chiavenna plain way down towards the lake, Pizzo di Prata on the other side of the valley and the mouth of Val Bregaglia to the north.
